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    <title>Carbon Descent Food</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://catherine-mason.co.uk/carbon-descent-food/" />
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    <id>tag:catherine-mason.co.uk,2008-01-13:/carbon-descent-food//8</id>
    <updated>2009-01-26T13:13:18Z</updated>
    <subtitle>a blog by Catherine Mason</subtitle>
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<entry>
    <title>Pasteurization of apple juice</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://catherine-mason.co.uk/carbon-descent-food/2008/12/pasteurization-of-apple-juice.html" />
    <id>tag:catherine-mason.co.uk,2008:/carbon-descent-food//8.51</id>

    <published>2008-12-11T12:53:13Z</published>
    <updated>2009-01-26T13:13:18Z</updated>

    <summary><![CDATA[After a bumper apple harvest in the autumn I needed a good, low-carbon method&nbsp; of preserving my crop....]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Catherine Mason</name>
        <uri>http://catherine-mason.com/</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="food preservation" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://catherine-mason.co.uk/carbon-descent-food/">
        <![CDATA[After a bumper apple harvest in the autumn I needed a good, low-carbon method&nbsp; of preserving my crop. ]]>
        <![CDATA[My smallish orchard (20 trees) is now in its tenth year, and cropping quite well.&nbsp; This autumn I had more apples than I have space to store them, so I've been juicing.&nbsp; With my electric juicer (domestic but quite heavy-duty) I've been getting about 450 ml juice per kg apples.&nbsp; The juice freezes well, but I soon ran out of freezer space and also wanted a storage method that didn't rely on a continuing electricity supply.&nbsp; Pasteurization, although it requires an initial energy input in the form of oven heat, seemed like my best option.&nbsp; Once done, the juice should store for at least several months, kept in a cool dark place (the back of my garage).&nbsp; Friends who'd done it before got me started, and I researched the method on-line to confirm and expand on the information they'd supplied. <br /><br /><br /><b>Temperature requirements<br /><br /></b>The consensus seems to be that the juice needs to be held at a minimum temperature of 70 deg C for at least 30 minutes.&nbsp;&nbsp; This was what my friends said, and was corroborated by all the on-line references I found<b>. <br /><br /><br /></b><b>Jars / bottles</b><br /><br />My friends use screw-topped wine bottles, but as I didn't have very many of these I used some tall screw-topped glass jars which had contained passata in a previous incarnation.&nbsp; Whatever you use, the important thing is that the tops should be undamaged and capable of achieving a good seal.&nbsp; My metal lids were of the type with a thin rubber / plastic?&nbsp; sealing strip around the inside of the lip. They also have a raised area in the centre that pings down as the jar contents cool and a vacuum is formed.&nbsp; That's quite handy as it demonstrates that you've got a good seal, although even flat lids will get a slightly convex look if correctly sealed under vacuum.&nbsp; <br /><br /><b>Sterilizing bottles/jars and lids<br /><br /></b>My jars had previously been sterilized and prior to use, were washed thoroughly in hot, soapy water, then rinsed in hot water. You could also sterilize them by putting them in a hot oven for 10 or 15 minutes, but you'd then need to <br />let the jars cool before putting cold juice into them.&nbsp; While the juice was in the oven I left the clean lids soaking in Milton's Solution, the stuff used for sterlizing baby's bottles.&nbsp; People sometimes use boiling water, but I find cool lids easier to manage.&nbsp; <br /><br /><b><br /></b><b>Oven Method</b><br /><br />I filled the jars with fresh juice and stood them on a roasting tray in the bottom of my oven, without the lids.&nbsp; I put them in the oven from cold, as I thought the more gradually they were heated the less liklihood of accidents. I then switched the oven on with the temperature set to 80 deg C with the fan.&nbsp; The jars/bottles need a bit of space around them for air to circulate. &nbsp; I ended up with 13 and could have fitted 15, but no more.&nbsp; Although the oven thermostat indicated that the temperature had been reached after about 15 minutes, I felt the jars by hand and was not convinced.&nbsp; I had over 6 litres of juice that I needed to bring to the correct temperature, and whilst the air in the oven was probably hot enough, the liquid definitely wasn't.&nbsp; I kept checking by hand, at ten minute intervals, and in my oven it took 70 minutes for the jars to stop getting any hotter.&nbsp; At this point I left them in the oven for a further 30 minutes (100 minutes in total).<br /><br /><b>Sealing </b><br /><br />I think it's necessary to get the jars/bottles sealed pretty quickly after they come out of the oven.&nbsp; I lifted the tray out onto a large wooden board, shook the lids dry and screwed them on to the jars pronto.&nbsp; You have to make sure the jar/bottle rim is spotless, as any bits of fruit fibre could prevent the formation of an air-tight seal.&nbsp; <br /><br /><br /><b>Long term storage</b><br /><br />I'm not sure how long the juice should last.&nbsp; Probably at least until the next apple harvest, possibly longer.&nbsp; I'll do a bit more research and post that information later, plus I'll conduct my own trial here. <br /><br />]]>
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Soya bean growing update 2008</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://catherine-mason.co.uk/carbon-descent-food/2008/11/soya-bean-growing-update.html" />
    <id>tag:catherine-mason.co.uk,2008:/carbon-descent-food//8.40</id>

    <published>2008-11-10T09:48:14Z</published>
    <updated>2008-11-16T16:42:22Z</updated>

    <summary><![CDATA[Despite a pretty awful growing season I was quite pleased with my soya bean crop.&nbsp; I'll certainly try them again next year, having learnt some lessons this time around....]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Catherine Mason</name>
        <uri>http://catherine-mason.com/</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="gardening for food" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://catherine-mason.co.uk/carbon-descent-food/">
        <![CDATA[Despite a pretty awful growing season I was quite pleased with my soya
bean crop.&nbsp; I'll certainly try them again next year, having learnt some
lessons this time around.]]>
        <![CDATA[<b>Getting them started</b><br /><br />I
started trying to germinate the seeds at the beginning of May 2008, but
had a few problems getting them to germinate - they germinated over a
long period, about three weeks, which meant that orthodox seed-raising
techniques gave problems.&nbsp; Seeds were sown in a seed tray in
proprietary seed compost. The seeds needed warmth to germinate, which I
supplied by putting them in my utility room on a rack over the central
heating boiler.&nbsp; The utility room is very dark, so when the seedlings
emerged I needed to move them to a lighter place, my unheated
greenhouse,&nbsp; quickly.&nbsp; The greenhouse was still too cold for the as yet
un-germinated seeds in the batch to germinate. I ended up pricking out
individual seedlings as they germinated, and in the process
distributing damp compost all over the utility room - not ideal. <br /><br />The
moral is you need to be able to deal with seedlings individually rather
than in batches.&nbsp; Next time I plan to germinate the seeds in my salad
seed&nbsp; sprouter when I'll at least be able to catch them immediately
they start to sprout and put&nbsp; them into small module trays with minimal
mess. <br /><br />With hindsight I realise I started them too early.&nbsp; Here
in Gloucestershire the beginning of May was definitely too soon as they
need light and warmth to grow, both of which were in short supply.&nbsp;
I'll wait until the very end of May or even early June next year unless
we get a warm spring, in which case earlier might be OK.&nbsp; <br /><br /><b>Growing conditions</b><br /><br />Soya
beans are said to like warm, sunny growing conditions and, last spring
being so cold, I was dubious about their chances outside.&nbsp; I ended up
planting them in my new poly-tunnel which only went up at the beginning
of July.&nbsp; By the time&nbsp; the plants went in the ground they were rather
drawn and leggy, having been grown on in less than ideal conditions.&nbsp;
At that point I'd also run out of garden compost for soil enrichment,
so the little bean plants went into my very light, nutrient-hungry,
sandy soil with only a scattering of pelleted chicken manure to help
them on their way.&nbsp; Despite all this I was able to pick fresh soya
beans by late summer - enough for several meals.&nbsp; <br /><br /><b>Varieties suitable for UK conditions</b><br /><br /><i>Ustie</i>, the Thompson and Morgan variety I grew, has now been replaced by a new variety, <i>Elena</i>,
said to have more even germination, better standing ability and earlier
and higher yields.&nbsp; They are both white-seeded varieties bred for
drying and next year I'll be trialling them side by side, along with
the green-seeded <i>Envy</i>, available from Suffolk Herbs, a variety
bred for eating fresh.&nbsp; Weather permitting, they'll be planted outside
once all danger of frost is past.. <br /><br /><b>Culinary Use</b><br /><br />The
pods are quite small, holding at most four beans and more often only
two or three.&nbsp; They are also quite difficult to get into - you have to
steam or blanch the pods in boiling water for a couple of minutes
before you can open them to get the beans out, and then cook the beans
some more until they are tender.&nbsp; On the whole I think it's&nbsp; worth the
effort as they're very tasty.&nbsp; I used them both as a bean salad in
vinaigrette and also in stir fries.&nbsp;&nbsp; They'd be good in an oriental
salad dressing too.&nbsp; Even though I grew a `drying' variety, I didn't
bother drying them as I don't like dried soya beans. Picked when still
green, they were perfectly OK fresh. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /></div>]]>
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Dried beans for winter use</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://catherine-mason.co.uk/carbon-descent-food/2008/10/dried-beans-for-winter-use.html" />
    <id>tag:catherine-mason.co.uk,2008:/carbon-descent-food//8.47</id>

    <published>2008-10-11T14:34:34Z</published>
    <updated>2009-01-23T14:00:49Z</updated>

    <summary><![CDATA[This year I grew three types of bean with the idea of drying them for winter use.&nbsp;...]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Catherine Mason</name>
        <uri>http://catherine-mason.com/</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="gardening for food" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://catherine-mason.co.uk/carbon-descent-food/">
        <![CDATA[This year I grew three types of bean with the idea of drying them for winter use.&nbsp; <br /> ]]>
        <![CDATA[Drying is obviously a good, low carbon method of food preservation, and
the beans would provide a source of both protein and carbohydrate
during the winter months.&nbsp; They are also considerably nicer to eat than
dried beans that you buy in the shops, and take less time to cook. <br /><br />The
first, Borlotto Lingua di Fuoco, never made it to the fully dried
stage.&nbsp; They were so delicious fresh out of the pods that we managed to
eat almost the entire crop as we picked them, leaving only a few saved
as seed for next year.&nbsp; They're lovely just as a hot vegetable with
butter and pepper, or as a bean salad with an olive oil, garlic and
white balsamic vinegar dressing. <br /><br />We didn't do very much better
with the second, runner bean Czar.&nbsp;&nbsp; This one is a white-seeded runner
bean which produces large beans quite similar to butter beans.&nbsp; The photo shows them after drying - with a 10p coin for size reference.<br /><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image"><a href="http://catherine-mason.co.uk/carbon-descent-food/images/beans-czar-dried.JPG"><img alt="beans-czar-dried.JPG" src="http://catherine-mason.co.uk/carbon-descent-food/images/beans-czar-dried-thumb-300x225.jpg" class="mt-image-right" style="margin: 0pt 0pt 20px 20px; float: right;" width="300" height="225" /></a></span><br />This
too was very tasty as a semi-dry, but I did manage to keep back about a
kilo for winter use. They were fantastic - I was very impressed both
with their flavour and the size - they're almost as big as the Greek
giant beans encountered on holiday.&nbsp; Apparently you can use them to
make hummus but I've not tried this yet.<br /><br />The third variety is
know just as Pea bean.&nbsp; It's a type of climbing French bean which
produces very pretty bi-coloured white and maroon beans (like little
Yin Yang symbols).&nbsp; During cooking the colours merge to turn the beans
a a lovely shade of&nbsp; earthy pink.&nbsp;&nbsp; They were utterly delicious too,
and I didn't grow enough to dry.<br /><br />There's obviously a common
theme emerging here - I didn't grow enough of any of them!&nbsp; Next year
I'll be growing larger numbers of all the above.&nbsp; 2008 was a lousy
summer and this must have had an adverse effect on bean crops but there
is another factor at work too. When you leave the pods on the plants to
develop, the plants don't crop anything like so prolifically as when
pods are picked at an immature stage, as is normally the case with say
runner beans.&nbsp; A plant that's prevented from setting seed puts all its
energy into creating more, but if seeds are allowed to develop the
production pressure is off, or significantly reduced.<br /><br />My
guesstimate is that in a comparison of runner beans grown for picking
at the normal stage compared to those grown for dried seeds, you'd
probably need about three times the number of plants to get the same
weight of beans.&nbsp; My view is that if you have the space and like beans
at all then they're worth trying.&nbsp; I thought they were all very good
indeed, and don't really know why they're not more popular.&nbsp; Anyone who
grows and enjoys broad beans would probably think they're fantastic. &nbsp;
&nbsp; <br />&nbsp; <div><br /></div>]]>
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Soya beans in the UK</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://catherine-mason.co.uk/carbon-descent-food/2008/01/soya-beans-in-the-uk.html" />
    <id>tag:catherine-mason.co.uk,2008:/carbon-descent-food//8.26</id>

    <published>2008-01-14T07:30:45Z</published>
    <updated>2008-11-16T16:44:09Z</updated>

    <summary><![CDATA[I came across fresh soya beans (as opposed to dried) for the first time last summer, in a Marks and Spencers prepared salad.&nbsp; I rarely buy convenience foods, so if people have been eating them for decades, forgive me, I...]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Catherine Mason</name>
        <uri>http://catherine-mason.com/</uri>
    </author>
    
        <category term="gardening for food" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://catherine-mason.co.uk/carbon-descent-food/">
        <![CDATA[I came across fresh soya beans (as opposed to dried) for the first time
last summer, in a Marks and Spencers prepared salad.&nbsp; I rarely buy
convenience foods, so if people have been eating them for decades,
forgive me, I lead a sheltered life!&nbsp; They were delicious, so I did an
internet trawl to see if it might be feasible to grow them here in the
UK.&nbsp;]]>
        <![CDATA[ I found one variety, Ustie, supplied by Thompson and Morgans,
which has been bred specifically to suit UK conditions, so I'm going to
try them this season.&nbsp; I've not yet found any reports of how other
people fared growing them, so if anyone has had any experience of these
I'd be very interested to hear.&nbsp; I suspect they may be a bit tricky,
otherwise they'd probably be more common...&nbsp; although I don't think the
variety's been around for very long. <br /><br />If it proves possible to
grow them well here, that would be very good news as they're such a
good source of protein which is often imported over big distances.&nbsp;
Another front on which to attack food miles...&nbsp; ]]>
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Food - how it could be part of the solution rather than the problem</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://catherine-mason.co.uk/carbon-descent-food/2008/01/food-how-it-could-be-part-of-t.html" />
    <id>tag:catherine-mason.co.uk,2008:/carbon-descent-food//8.25</id>

    <published>2008-01-14T07:27:19Z</published>
    <updated>2009-01-23T14:02:40Z</updated>

    <summary><![CDATA[To reduce our food carbon foot prints I think these are the main things we need to do:Produce food&nbsp; locally to where it's consumed and drastically reduce or even eliminate food miles.&nbsp; This means eating what is in season and...]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Catherine Mason</name>
        <uri>http://catherine-mason.com/</uri>
    </author>
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-us" xml:base="http://catherine-mason.co.uk/carbon-descent-food/">
        <![CDATA[To reduce our food carbon foot prints I think these are the main things we need to do:<br /><br /><ul><li>Produce
food&nbsp; locally to where it's consumed and drastically reduce or even
eliminate food miles.&nbsp; This means eating what is in season and growing
some of your own if possible. &nbsp; </li><li>Focus on cooking and food-preservation methods that use the least possible amount of energy.</li><li>Eat
lower down the food chain - use productive land mainly to grow food for
people rather than animals, thus avoiding idiocies such as digging up
rainforest to grow soya to feed to cows!</li><li>Avoid chemical inputs
such as artificial fertilizers and pesticides that have taken lots of
energy to produce and distribute and are of questionable value anyway. </li></ul><br />Enjoy
all of the above!&nbsp; Growing your own is a blast, as is low-energy
cooking!&nbsp; I also get a lot of pleasure from making compost (call me sad
if you like).&nbsp; Eating food that's in season makes you feel more in
touch with the cycles of the earth and you get the pleasure of
anticipation and a sense of being part of something bigger...&nbsp; <br /><br />&nbsp;Fortunately there are still people alive who can remember things like <i>digging for victory</i> during the second world war.&nbsp; Cherish them and try to record their memories while they're still around.<br /><br /> ]]>
        
    </content>
</entry>

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